Où l'île mange

Polished Mediterranean dining on an old-town terrace — one of Hvar Town's most refined kitchens.

Hvar's executive steak address — the old town's most beautiful terrace, perched right above the Riva for the sunset, and the island's best steaks: Tomahawk, Wagyu A5 and Kobe from the grill.

The legendary Meneghello estate above Vinogradišće Bay — art, botany and Dalmatian cooking under the pines of Palmižana, in the family since 1906.

The beach table on Palmižana — you sit right on the water at Toto's beach, between pines and bay. Excellent fresh scampi, very good fresh tuna as sashimi and tartare, outstanding fish ravioli — and the day simply stays.

Creative Mediterranean cuisine in the 15th-century Jakša palace — local dishes with a contemporary touch.

Steak and fish house run by the same family since 1987 — a Hvar classic in a narrow stone lane off the main square.

Timeless restaurant above the most beautiful bay of the Pakleni Islands — ten minutes by taxi boat from the Riva.

A Hvar seafood institution since 1989, tucked into a stone alley of the old Groda quarter — fresh fish from the morning's catch, lobster spaghetti and the island's gregada, served the old way. No online booking: a call ahead is how it has always worked.

Modern Dalmatian cooking in an intimate stone alley — one of the town's most romantic tables.

The Matejević family's house in Vlaka Bay, in the family since 1964 and now run by the third generation — the day's own catch, vegetables, olive oil and wine from their own land, tables in the garden above the moorings. Reached by boat, and worth the crossing.

Seafood institution on the waterfront promenade — catch of the day, Adriatic lobster and a guest book of yachts to match.